行程總表, 北極 Arctic, 旅遊足跡

[2019冬‧北極] Arctic．Svalbard 斯瓦爾巴極地之旅懶人包攻略 – North‎78° Svalbard Tourism Checklist

發佈於 2019-10-04 由 

前言 Foreword 

去年從非洲回來後一直懷念在大草原上看動物放空的時光，加上前幾年曾經被義大利鋼琴家 Ludovico Einaudi 受綠色和平組織委託拍攝一部在斯瓦爾巴Svalbard冰川上演奏北極Arctic悲歌的影片所感動（該影片呼籲世人重視全球暖化的問題，看了幕後花絮，曲子演奏的當下一直不斷有冰川融化，也始得拍攝更為艱難），最近新聞也不斷強力播送格陵蘭冰川急速融化，更加堅定要親眼目睹冰川及尋找北極熊的決心 (握拳 😎 ) 

After returning from Africa last year, my mind has been constantly filled with thoughts of times we spent with animals on the vast prairies of Tanzania. My mind then drifted to a video I saw years ago by Greenpeace in Svalbard, featuring Italian pianist, Ludovico Einaudi. In the video, Einaudi performs “Elegy for the Arctic,” a requiem of the Arctic, upon glaciers of the Arctic Ocean to call for its protection and  bring attention to the issue of global warming. Their point was proven once again with the release of “The Making of” video; the silence before rolling broken by the noise of a fallen glacier, tearing notes off as the grand piano floated in a sea of ice. Recently, new reports concerning Greenland glaciers have also floated to the surface(See what I did there? XD) if you want more information, please click this link.

All these mentions of the Arctic has made me even more determined to visit these beauties for myself, and this year, I finally got a chance and began my journey towards Svalbard.

斯瓦巴群島在哪？
Where Is Svalbard？

(以下內容轉載自維基百科)

斯瓦巴（Svalbard）或稱冷岸群島，是位於北極地區的群島，也是挪威最北界的國土範圍。它坐落在歐洲大陸北方，約佇立於挪威大陸與北極點兩者正中間。群島橫跨北緯74°到 81°、東經10°到35°。斯匹茲卑爾根島是群島中最大的島嶼，接著是東北地島與厄齊島，故群島前稱為斯匹次卑爾根群島（Spitbergen）。

在17至18世紀，此地被當作捕鯨站使用，但其後遭廢棄。20世紀初，開始有人開採斯瓦巴群島上的煤礦，並形成了數個永久聚居地。研究和旅遊業成爲了當地的重要輔助工業。群島上所有聚居地並無道路連接，交通主要以雪地機車、船隻、以及航空爲主。斯瓦巴朗伊爾機場（Longyearbyen Airport）為斯瓦巴唯一一個機場，也是當地主要對外門戶。

Svalbard (Known as Spitsbergen/Spitzbergen prior to 1925) is a Norwegian archipelago in the Arctic Ocean. Situated north of mainland Europe, it is about midway between continental Norway and the North Pole. The islands of the group range from 74° to 81° north latitude, and from 10° to 35° east longitude; largest being Spitsbergen, followed by Nordaustlandet and Edgeøya. 

The islands were first used as a whaling base by whalers who sailed far north in pursuit of whales for blubber in the 17th and 18th centuries, after which they were abandoned. Coal mining started at the beginning of the 20th century, and several permanent communities were established. No roads connect the settlements; instead snowmobiles, aircraft and boats serve inter-community transport. Svalbard Airport, Longyearbyen serves as the main gateway in and out of these islands.

斯瓦巴群島行前準備
Preparing For Takeoff

機票 Plane Tickets

這次我們選擇從台灣直飛阿姆斯特丹，轉機到奧斯陸再飛往斯瓦巴群島。

從奧斯陸（Oslo）有直飛斯瓦巴（Svalbard）的班機，主要由北歐航空 SAS 及挪威航空 Norwegian Air 兩間航空執飛。最後我是訂挪威航空，原因很簡單：因為票價比SAS便宜，我去年就買大概每人Lowfare票價是200歐（但SAS每天飛Svalbard的班次較多 ，跟挪威航空一樣只有一天一班直飛，其他班次會在Tromso中停），可依照自己的行程或停留時間選擇航班。

This time, we chose to fly directly from Taiwan to Amsterdam. Then transferring from Oslo to Svalbard. 

Direct flights from Oslo are mainly operated by two airlines, Norwegian Airand Scadlnavian Airlines(SAS) For this trip, we chose to fly Norwegian Air, the reason is simple: It’s cheaper! (I have a kid to raise😂) The Lowfare Price was around 200€ each, however, they only have one direct flight per day, the rest stops in Tromso. On the other hand, SAS has more flights per, so feel free to book your flight according to your own itinerary.

 

簽證 Visa

斯瓦巴群島為中立免簽地區，但是進入挪威需要申根簽證（台灣目前為免申根簽證國家）

Svalbard is currently a neutral zone, but you will need a Schengen visa to enter Norway. (Taiwan citizens won’t be needing one.)

 

機場接駁巴士（時刻表）
Airport Shuttles(Timetable)

出機場後就會看見flybus，司機會詢問地點然後上車刷卡付費。價錢單趟為成人：Nok 75、學生：Nok 50、小孩：Nok 25，會停靠在大部分的飯店門口很方便，下圖為官方巴士行駛路線。

As you leave the airport, you will see a Flybus shuttle stop. These busses stop at most airport hotels (Map below). Price: Adult 75kr, Student 50kr, Child 25kr

 

貨幣 Currency

斯瓦爾巴群島的當地貨幣是使用挪威克朗（Nok），建議刷卡或是帶金融卡到當地提領挪威克朗。

更新：這趟回來全程都使用刷卡，非常方便！

Local currency ae Norwegian Krones(kr,) I would suggest using credit cards or bringing an ATM card along. (Exchange rate: 1TWD = 3.35kr)

(Update: I used a card throughout this trip, super convenient!)

 

電壓 Voltage

230 V/ 50 Hz

 

網路 Internet

每次到歐洲就一定會先上網買英國Three UK的sim卡，30日享12GB高速流量，也可撥打歐盟及英國電話3000分鐘通話+3000則簡訊 (瑞士除外) ，但是要注意的是不支援熱點分享，三合一卡版，各手機型號適用。缺點是刷卡的時候收不到台灣的銀行簡訊 😐 ，所以後來我就乾脆多帶一隻較不常用的手機裝台灣的sim卡，不然沒收到簡訊又會東想西想會不會被盜刷XD

When visiting Europe, I usually get a three-in-one SIM card from Three UK. With 12 GB of data over 30 days, there’s also 3000+ minutes and messages available in the EU (other than Switzerland.) However, they don’t support hotspot so if that’s of importance for you, I would suggest another brand. This card should work for all types of phones. I did find that when using this SIM card, I’m unable to receive any messages on my Taiwan SIM card. In the end, I opted to bring another phone with me and use that one to receive messages from Taiwan.

 

轉接頭 Adapter

歐洲type F，兩圓孔（點我詳細查詢）

Europe Type F(two round plug)

 

住宿 Accommodations 

考慮到冬天氣候不佳，加上帶著小孩不想拉著行李走太多路，這趟我們選擇住在門口就有機場巴士停靠站的兩間飯店（上方機場接駁巴士圖可查看），我是在Booking.com上面訂的（搭配Shopback有時候有12%回饋覺得划算XD，大媽性格這時候又出現惹哈哈），但因為我們帶著卡妹考慮小孩加床的問題，建議訂之前要先寫信詢問飯店哪種房型適合加床以及收費的部分，以免訂了又要取消比較麻煩。然後也要提醒一下大家，訂房後Svalbard Hotell會先以信用卡收取全部的房費（一般來說我自己以往訂Booking.com比較多的經驗是到當地才被收取房費，當然有些會在日期快到之前收取，可是訂房後兩天被收取全額還是第一次碰到，不過不用緊張，畢竟還是可以在期限內取消的訂單，就算行程有變化還是會退刷把房費退還的：）

 

  • Funken Lodge 方墾小屋酒店

  • Svalbard Hotell | Polfareren 斯瓦爾巴德酒店| 普法瑞恩

  • Isfjord Radio Hotel：只開放二月到九月（這間列入下次入住清單！聽說去年有北極熊侵入儲藏室找食物吃XD）

 

Taking into consideration the harsh winter weather, plus traveling with daughter, I didn’t want to walk too far in the cold with our luggages. Eventually, I settled on two hotels near the airport. This time, I used Booking.com and got a 12% discount with Shopback (#AmazingHousewife.) But because we are traveling with the kid, we needed and additional bed and so I did call ahead to confirm the rates and room. If you’re traveling with a child as well, I would suggest doing the same incase they aren’t able to accommodate.

It should be noted that Svalbard Hotell asks you to pay in full as soon as you book(usually hotels have the option to pay when you check in or a few days before you arrive) this was actually the first time I was asked to pay like this. You can still cancel within a certain amount of time though, so if plans change, it is possible to cancel your booking.

  • Funken Lodge
  • Svalbard Hotell | Polfareren
  • Isfjord Radio Hotel：Only open from February until September (Apparently there were polar bears raiding the food storage here XD Definitely staying here next time！)

 

交通 Transportation

  • 朗伊爾城觀光巴士：每次導覽為2個小時，費用為365 Nok（使用英文或是挪威語導覽）

  • 計程車：+47 7902 1305（飯店可代叫計程車，本來我們想出城看極光但因天氣不好作罷，1-4人小車每小時 Nok650元，5-8中巴每小時 Nok750元）

  • Tour：因為我們有參加賞鯨、冰川以及到最北邊Pyramiden的行程，船公司會派車到飯店門口接送。

 

Longyearbyen Tourist Bus: Each tour is around 2 hours, 365kr per person (English/Norwegian)

Cabs: Hotels can call cabs for you, we were going to take a cab to see the northern lights this time but the weather declined our request😭 Fares are around 650kr/hr for standard cabs and 750kr/hr for vans. Number: +47 7902 1305

Tours: There are many different tours around the area. We gone of whale-watching and glacier tours as well as venturing out to Pyramiden, the northernmost point of the area. Tour companies will send cars to collect you from your hotel.

 

推薦季節 Suggested Seasons

如果想要看北極熊其實最推薦春夏兩個季節，尤其是6-8月（有去過的人分享的），因為剛好有融冰，適合北極熊尋找獵物。不過當地政府其實明訂禁止尋找北極熊的tour，所以大部分都是搭船出海尋找野生動物，只是這兩個季節較容易看到北極熊出來找食物喔！

當初決定拜訪的季節其實沒有想太多，只考慮三點：第一要有假期、第二我不愛永夜、第三希望還是有機會可以看見極光，微弱的也可以接受哈哈（有點欠扁我知道XD），所以就衝動的訂了機票，但後來要計劃的時候發現我們去的時間居然是他們的淡季，因為夏天剛結束冬天又還沒開始，所以很多自費的行程都沒有了，大部分都結束於九月底，然後十一月才又開始，但我當然有發揮柯南的精神問到幾個行程，下方活動的部分再跟大家分享。

更新：這次北極熊跟極光都沒看見，可能不夠強運 😯 ，不過能看見麋鹿、鯨魚以及像天堂般的冰川景色還有到最北邊的Barensburg、Pyramiden真的就覺得夠幸福了。

If seeing polar bears is your main goal, spring and summer are the best times to visit(especially Jun~Aug.) During this time, the ice starts to melt and the cubby creatures venture out to hunt and look for food. However, polar bear tours are strictly forbidden by the government so most tours take you so see other animals. These couple months are just when you are more likely to see polar bears!

Originally, I didn’t put much thought into when we would be visiting. I had only three things in mind: 

  1. Everyone Must be on holiday
  2. Avoid polar nights at all costs!!
  3. NORTHERN LIGHTS!!!

Therefore, I booked the first flight available and it was only when going deeper into the planning stage did I realise that we were going during off-seasons. Because of the timing, most self-guided tours are unavailable. Most tours have a break in between September and November, but of course, there are still other things to do.

(Update: We did NOT see polar bears pr northern light this trip😭 but we did see load of other wildlife, amazing glaciers, and the gorgeous landscapes of Barensburg and Pyramiden #WorthIt)

 

穿著 What to Wear

貼身、優雅、不臃腫是最高原則XD

洋蔥式穿法，因為室內都有暖氣以方便穿脫為主，如果穿太多進到室內會熱到第一時間想脫掉，但是又會邊脫邊靜電電到自己，然後頭髮又亂七八糟，女人到這個時候可能就已經快爆炸了，所以保暖又貼身優雅很重要！這邊Basecamp explorer旅行社提供的packing-list，大家可以參考看看：)

以下是我們這次採買的裝備，跟專業的比起來真的不算甚麼，因為平常沒爬山所以怕買太貴的之後也用不著，所以請教了愛登山的朋友加上自己研究了一下，分享給大家。

  • 上半身
    第一層：貼身排汗衣、美麗諾羊毛內衣（Smartwool、Odlo、Icebreaker、Mammut等品牌可參考，我們最後買Smartwool）
    第二層：羊毛毛衣、Polartech中層、Uniqlo輕薄型羽絨背心
    第三層：防水外套（Aigle、Montbell Gore Tex）
  • 下半身
    發熱褲：Uniqlo、Smartwool
    防水褲：Uniqlo、遊遍天下
    羊毛襪：Smartwool
    雪靴：Columbia、Sorel
  • 配件
    帽子
    圍巾

更新：本來以為這樣穿不會腫了，但看照片還是很腫，畢竟穿了好幾層XD

Oppa Onion Style！

Heating is always available indoors, so we need to find a way to layer our clothes for easy removal. During this process, static and messy hair are sure to annoy most of us ladies XD Therefore, warmth, elegance, and fitting are of the utmost importance! The packing list provided by Basecamp Explorer has a pretty detailed selection:)

Here’s what I packed this time around, though it may not compare to professional equipment, but I did ask some of my mountain lover friends and it should be pretty similar to what most people would bring. 

  • Tops

Layer 1: Fitting sweatshirts, Merino thermal underwear(you can get them from brands such as Smartwool, Odlo, Icebreaker, Mammut…the one we got was from Smartwool)

Layer 2: Wool sweaters, Polartec combing coats, Uniqlo light down vests

Layer 3: Waterproof coats(Aigle, Montbell Gore Tex)

  • Bottoms

Thermal Tights/Leggings (Uniqlo, Smartwool)

Waterproof Trousers (Uniqlo, Global Trotter)

Woolen Socks (Smartwool)

Snow Boots (Columbia, Sorel)

  • Accessories

Hats

Scarves

(Update：I thought I wouldn’t look like a potato, I was wrong…😂)

 

攝影配備 Photography Equipment

  • 機身 ：Canon 5D Mark IV、SONY A73
  • 鏡頭 ：11-24mm f/4L USM、16-35mm f/2.8L USM、24-70mm f/2.8L USM、Sony 100-400mm 、24-105 mm
  • 記憶卡：數張
  • 電池：原廠電池
  • 相機防水外套
  • 腳架
  • 機身保暖袋

Camera: Canon 5D Mark IV、SONY A73

Lens: 11-24mm f/4L USM、16-35mm f/2.8L USM、24-70mm f/2.8L USM、Sony 100-400mm 、24-105 mm

SD Card: Loads

Battery: Original battery

Waterproof Camera Case

Thermal Camera Case

Tripods

 

文化活動 (2019年時間表)
Cultural Events (2019)

  • Polarjazz 世界上最北邊的爵士音樂節：01/31-02/03
  • Solfestuka 慶祝太陽回歸週：03/01-03/10

 

戶外活動 Outdoor Events

極地的活動比我想像中的還多啊！大家可以點進以下的活動列表，搜尋適合自己旅遊時間及價位的行程，不同季節會有不同的活動，大部分的行程都會有小孩的年齡限制要點進去看清楚喔！以下是我自己做功課的時候發現還不錯的旅行社行程，一併提供給大家參考：)

There’s simply so much to so in the Arctic! You can look for the ones that best suits you from the list below:) Different events are available in different seasons, and most events have age restrictions so please make sure that your child won’t be left out of the fun! The events below are the ones I felt really interested in~

1.  Svalbard官網活動列表 Svalbard Tourism Website To-Do List

  • 地形車冒險 ATV Safari
  • 船隻遊覽 Boat trips
  • 健行 Hiking
  • 食物體驗 Food and drinks experiences
  • 狗拉雪橇 Dog Sledding
  • 皮艇 Kayak
  • 騎馬 Horse activities
  • 市區觀光 Sightseeing and lectures
  • 雪地車 Snowmobile
  • 自行車 Biking
  • 啤酒廠參觀 Brewery Visits
  • 桑拿、BBQ Wellness
  • 雪地履帶車 Snowcat
  • 冰洞 Ice Cave
  • 滑雪 Skiing
  • 北極光體驗 Northern Lights adventures
  • 熱氣球 Hot Air Balloon
  • 攝影行程 Photo safari
  • 探險 Expeditions
  • 釣魚 Fishing trips
  • 礦場體驗 Mine visit
  • 體育活動 Sports adventures
  • 手工紀念品製作 Handicraft

2. Svalbard Adventure

3. Better Moments

4. Svalbard Wildlife Expeditions

5. Basecampexplorer Checklist

6. Henningsen Transport & Guiding AS ：遊輪行程

7. Natural World Safaris ：高價遊輪（PDF介紹）

 

我們這次因為只有停留五天，前後兩天扣掉也只剩三個整天可以跑行程，因為最想去俄羅斯Pyramiden跟找尋北極熊，只好三天都出海惹（誤，當時跟Svalbard Hotell飯店接洽的時候他建議我帶著小孩去Pyramiden跟賞鯨一定要坐大船（是說小船也不接受小孩啦！），所以後來選擇Henningsen跟bettermoments這兩間船公司，直接在網路上預訂就可以了（不過價錢真的不太可愛><）

Because we only stayed for 5 days, and had plans the first two, there was only three days left for us to do stuff. I really wanted to go to Pyramiden and find polar bears, so we went to sea all three days. When we talked with the Svalbard Hotell staff, they advised to take ferries instead of smaller boats(small boats won’t let children on board lol) Therefore, we chose the companies Henningsen and BetterMoments, you can make reservations online(prices are really high though #RamenForLife)

  • Whale Watching: Adult 1990kr, Children 1290kr
  • Pyramiden: Adult 1950kr, Children 1000kr
  • Glacier Tour: Adult 1950kr, Children 1000kr

 

北極動物簡介 Arctic Animals

  • Arctic Fox
  • Reindeer
  • Harp Seal
  • Polar Bear
  • Puffin
  • Walrus
  • Arctic Hare
  • Arctic Wolf
  • Musk Ox
  • Orca
  • Snow Goose
  • Sea Otter

 

景點 Attractions

  • Barentsburg 巴倫支堡
  • Pyramiden 皮拉米登
  • Ny-Ålesund 新奧勒松

 

餐廳 Restaurants

這次有吃的 This Time!

其他清單 Next time!

 

行程 Itinerary

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